(Previous : Part 3: Baja Sur, Mexico)
Once my family arrived, it was time for frolic. For the next three days, we soaked in the swimming pool, and the warm ocean. Drank many a guilt-free cocktails, ate much from the four or five restaurants inside the resort. Walked on the beach with a gentle surf.
I wanted to remember the gentle surf, a small clip of the ocean scene and sounds can help to soothe anyones mind.
Gentle Surf
The infinity pool was amazing. I have seen pictures of pools such as these, but this was my first personal experience. It is very beautiful sight where the edge pool merges with a ocean view.
The coconut trees certainly added to the tropical feel.
During the daytime, this outdoors bar is one of the busiest.
Just liked the sight of a couple on the sandy shores.
We did a couple of touristy activities such as a boating trip to do snorkeling and another one to swim with the dolphins.
The boat ride to the southern most tip of Baja, was quite enjoyable. The arch and the Scooby Doo rock were spectacular.
Apparently the little rock below is the official southernmost tip of Baja...
When it came to swimming with a dolphin, I don't think I had this much fun riding anything other than a motorcycle :) And my kids had much fun too...
We did not know how the three days went by. It was already time to leave. As soon as my family left, I packed up and hit the road.
A quick ride down to La Paz, took me to the same flat of Laurence's. I had the keys with me. While in Cabo, I kept an eye on the weather, and another tropical storm had just crossed up north between Ciudad Constitución and Ciudad Insurgentes, right where the long road construction was. I wanted to play it safe, as I had to return on schedule, and did not want to risk riding in slushy unpaved stretch. Frantic searches on the web for someone who could tow did not yield anything immediate. The convenience of Yelp or Google search for tow trucks came empty After a lot of googling I narrowed my choices to a few contacts including a site Baja Wheeling from a discussion forum talking about towing boats.
I was going to have dinner with Laurence and Luis, and they showed up around 5:30. It was getting late for a business day. I had Laurence call the first couple of contacts, as many here spoke only in spanish. No one even picked up the phone. As luck would have it, we reluctantly called Thomas at Baja Wheeling. Laurence talked to him first in Spanish, and came to know that he talks in English. She gave me the phone immediately to me. What a relief it was hear someone talk the language that you understand :)
It turns out that he is a Canadian settled in La Paz, and as an independent single guy company who helps people to tow their fancy boats from as far as Florida and Texas down to Baja. Over the phone he sounded like a guy who can do anything. To my dismay he says he could give me a ride the following week when he is going that way for some reason. I almost begged him saying I am on a tight schedule, and have some US dollars that I can pay him in cash. He told me to email him the address where I was holed up, and he will let me know later whether he is going to do it.
Having done what I could, my only choice if I did not get a tow truck, was to brave my way through the unpaved stretch, and figure the rest on the go. May be I could stay one extra day to allow for the muddy soil to dry up. Laurence was fully supportive of that idea, and offered that I could stay in their apartment as long as I wished. Bless her heart!
Then Luis drove us to a local Mexican restaurant. Just when we started, we got a call from Thomas, and said that he did not want to see me stranded, and so, will help me tow my bike across the construction zone. What a relief it was...
We ordered a big plate of nachos with a lot of cheese and ground beef. It was delicious, and a single plate was filling for three adults. Had a beer to wash it down. Did not need to order any more food.
We drove back to an ice-cream shop, which the locals like a lot. Even around 10 PM, the seaside was quite active. Given the warm night, the ice cream sounded like a good idea. I chose the coffee flavored ice-cream, and we strolled along the shore line until we all finished the ice-cream.
Knowing I will have to leave early the next day, I had to bid good bye to Laurence and Luis, and thank them as much as words can describe for their hospitality.
Next morning I woke early, eager to continue my journey home. Thomas was on time. It was tricky to get my bike on his Ford truck. I was shit scared when he asked me to ride on the two skinny ramps he tied to the end of his flatbed. I did not dare to do such a stunt for the fear of dropping the bike, let alone hurting myself. Deciding to push the bike instead, I found someone to help us to push. While it did not take too long, it was a challenge getting the mighty ST on to the truck.
Thomas did not waste anytime getting out of La Paz and pointed his truck north. It was a couple of hours drive to the drop off point.
Soon enough we came across the construction zone. It was not as bad as I had thought in spite of the rains. Even though there were several wet spots on the road, much of it had dried up. Any which way, with all the soft sand, I was glad to have asked for help when I needed it, better be careful than sorry, I guess. Like the man once said, "You have to know your limits!" :)
Along the way, I hear stories from Thomas about why he chose to live in Baja, the simple life, his adventures of towing big boats through the narrow twisties down the stretch of Baja, and more than anything else - the hurricane stories.
Thomas is a big strong guy, and I am extremely surprised to learn that he is a vegetarian. For a guy who is on the road so often, its hard to find good vegetarian food along the way, and so he packs his lunch.
We stop around noon time at a road side Taco stand, and Thomas said that the food is supposed to be good and was highly recommended by his wife. Sure enough, the tacos were delicious.
I did not even feel the couple of hours roll by in his company. Soon after, we reach Ciudad Insurgentes, I find couple more guys in a gas station to help us unload the bike. Getting the bike down was a lot easier than getting it up. I thank Thomas profusely, and bid him goodbye with a bear-hug as he rolls out of the gas station.
I would certainly recommend looking him up if you are ever in need of any help around La Paz.
I remember talking to the gas station attendant, who spoke English fluently. He had worked in the farms of the Central valley of California for several years. He had to go back after his visa ended as he could not renew it. However, now he is a happy camper, bought a house down there with the money he saved, and seemed to be enjoying the laid back life in the country side of Ciudad Insurgentes.
From there to Mulege was a smooth run with no surprises. Close to Loretto, I do find a roadside Coco shop, where I entertain myself with a fresh coconut.
I check in to the familiar Hotel Mulege, where I had stayed on the way in. It was very hot and muggy by the time I got there. Immediately I went and got a couple of beers from the convenience store near by.
Sometimes you learn about yourself a lot on the road. Did not know I was capable of gulping down two beers in just a few minutes :) And it felt good in the warm muggy atmosphere, as the poor old AC unit was trying its best to cool down the room without much success. I sprawled on the bed and took a nice long nap.
By the time I got up, the sun had gone down, and the temperatures were more manageable. I take a stroll outside to the restaurant next door. There I met the restaurant owner. Being the last guy to order food for the day, I was alone, and started to chat with the owner, and he was happy to oblige for a palaver. Another one of the inspiring stories I heard from him - He came from the mainland Mexico to Baja, a long time ago. Setup a roadside Taco stand, worked hard, and eventually he was able to buy this nice little place and open a proper restaurant. Much of the items on the menu are his own recipes. Good story of someone chasing their dreams, and becoming successful.
The next morning, I visit the same place for breakfast. This time, the owner remembers me and welcomes as if I am an old friend. He was seated with someone, so, I look around to find another table, but he calls me to join him. He also introduces me to the other gentleman, who is from San Diego. Soon, his wife also joins, and we have a very nice conversation.
They come to Baja almost every year for a few weeks vacation. They have a lot to say about how to enjoy Baja, which is not certainly riding quickly through it :) Apparently there are a lot of villages, street side restaurants and quiet, uncrowded coasts around Mulege and Loretto. Someday, I might return to enjoy such calm days on the beach. They talked about the old highway between La Paz and Cabo, about the town Todo Santos, which provides much more rustic experience than the freeway I had been on. They claimed a lot of mango, sapotae orchards along the way, with trees filled with fruits during the season. Someday, I hope to get on that old road.
The couple were the simple folks, with such heartwarming smiles. And certainly I learnt a thing or two from them about taking pleasures with the simplest of things, and finding joy in each others company. He is a handy man, and she his office assistant. He says gleefully, "I do not like talking on the phone. My wife does all the talking, and I do all the work.". A good partnership indeed...
Saddling up, I start towards Cataviña. Even though I had been through this road on my way in, everything looks different when I travelled the opposite direction. There is a lot that I recognized, then again, a lot I did not. For example, entering Baja Norte there was a huge flag, and a very elaborate establishment for the border control. even though I was quickly waved through.
Not too far from the Baja Norte border, I do take a lunch break at a gas station. Once again the language problem overcome by sign language as I get a couple of tacos, and sit under the tree. The warm breeze is quite enjoyable. For the bill, I was shown the number on a calculator, which I gladly paid. Delicious food for a very nominal price. I guess the taco lady made all the tacos in the morning, and was selling them during the day, you can tell how fresh the food tasted. I sit around until my coke is finished.
I pass through the section where I got struck in the sand on my way in. I must have spent more than half hour digging my way through the sandy 'vada' crossing barely half a mile. Now that stretch of pavement is completed, it was open for traffic. I cross the trouble spot in just a few seconds.
Climbing towards Catavina, once again was uneventful. I made good time. Another small break to stretch my legs did not last too long as it was getting very hot. The desert does not offer any shades. I was eager to get some breeze while moving which otherwise did not exist. So, I take a couple of pictures of the surroundings, and take a few sips of water.
While I am there, a couple of truckers and cars pass by. It was amazing to see almost each and every one of them wave as they pass by, and I wave back at them with a big smile on the face. Somehow, such civilities get lost when we are in crowds, and we get caught in our own lives.
I reach Cataviña well in time around 3 PM.
I had been at the Hotel Mission Cataviña only once on my way in. But it instantly felt like home, as I walked the red tiles on the way to my room.
There were a couple of kids frolicking in the pond. I get a beer from the bar, and I also decide to soak into the water after a long ride under the hot sun. It certainly felt good.
Later in the evening I strolled around to take a few pictures of the surroundings, cactuses under the setting sun.
As I walk around when the sun started to set on the far west, I think I got some good pictures of the cactuses.
An old style selfie had to happen under the setting sun :)
My heart was at peace, as surprisingly I was on schedule. As much as I loved travelling to parts unknown, proximity of homeland was very inviting. I will be crossing the border into San Diego the next day. A sense of accomplishment was swelling in my heart. I had some simple food, and later sat around in the dark for a long time. Well, it was not as dark, as the near full moon was casting its silvery glaze over the desert. If and when I come here next, I should on a no-moon day, I tell myself. The unpolluted skies would be spectacular with the whole milky way carpeting the skies. Once again this could be another reason for me to visit.
Warm summer desert nights are something to be experienced. Barring occasional trucks passing through, I enjoyed the absolute quite of the night. Not even insects stirred under the thorny cactuses, an absolute quiet reigned. Until one experiences such a thing, we don't realize how oblivious we have become to the cacophony of sounds surrounding our normal lives in the cities.
The next morning, I woke up early and went out to take the sunrise pictures. I was also able to shoot the full moon which was still hanging around in the skies even after the sun rose.
To my dismay the little restaurant across the road was closed. I guess they open the doors only when they feel like. I go back to the restaurant in the motel, and have some simple breakfast, and wash it down with a coffee and fresh orange juice.
For namesake, I do fill in some gas from the roadside vendor, knowing full well that I had plenty gas until the next gas station. I still had some pesos in my pocket which is better with the guy selling gas sitting in a shack than in my pocket, I can give him some business.
The road from Cataviña to El Rosario was one of the best scenic roads I had been on, In the early morning sun, the desert was glowing. I was glad to have seen this road in broad daylight, as on the way in it got too dark fairly fast when I was crossing this stretch.
The road twisted and turned. The road so narrow at places, and went through some very high points with no guard rails. I certainly felt vertigo in many places. One has to be extremely careful, particularly if one is travelling by car, as the trucks borrow more space from the opposite lanes, and in tight twists, the headlights of a truck going in the opposite direction can come as a surprise.
Once I got to El Rosario, I do meet an lonely Australian rider going south, and he mentions his trip is also to the tip of Argentina... He seemed a lot more prepared than I was. Looks like the stretch between Alaska to Argentina is a popular stretch for the adventurous kind.
I realized my sight seeing times are over. And I was determined to reach San Diego by the evening. The only thing that can consume more of my time is the border crossing. This day I also saw a fair share of the off-road riding but it was not as bad as the alternate roads were well packed.
As I get close to Ensenada, I do spot a lady selling Jack fruits on the road side, It is one of my most favorite fruits. So, I stop for an unplanned break. But the break was well worth it. Once again, I found the language was no barrier, and the lady served me couple of boxes of peeled Jack fruit. She watches me with interest as I gobble it up.
I felt an unknown friendship to this lady. I ask for another box of fruits to go, and she packs it well and gives it to me. With another wave of goodbye to another stranger, I start towards my final stretch.
Reaching Tijuana was no problem. But as I approached the border crossing, I was appalled by the amount of crowd, and number of people. The road was packed with folks returning after a weekend in Mexico. It took me well over couple of hours for a handful of miles to reach the border crossing.
As I approached the gate and sat waiting for my turn, I felt a little pang in my heart saying good-bye to the country which was my home for the past couple of weeks. There were a whole bunch of street peddlers trying to sell trinkets. A silent promise swelled in my heart to return someday.
The border crossing was peaceful. The security officer commented, "Wow, must have been a good ride.", and waves me through. Yes, indeed it was a good trip.
Once in Gringo land, the traffic moves smooth on I5, and before I knew it, I check into Motel 6 near San Diego Airport. I still remember a few flights flying so low over the building tops as they descended into the airport beyond. If I jumped high enough, I could have touched them :) I see a girl on the sitting on the first floor lost in her book, with a cigarette to keep her company. Familiar smells and sounds make me feel at home.
Once I check into the room, it was a pleasant change to see all the channels on TV in English :) I take a long shower, and walk out to find a place to eat dinner. I realized that I am right next to the 'Little Italy', and decide go for a walk around, and have dinner at an Italian restaurant.
It was not too hard to choose a place to eat with Yelp's help. The streets were thronging with pedestrians and the restaurants looked quite busy for the dinnertime. I do spot a craft beer place while strolling - Bolt Brewery. I got myself an Orange Ale which was quite good.
Then I walk over to the Mona Lisa Italian Restaurant. I found a seat near the bar, and ordered chicken marsala. I found the history of the restaurant quite interesting. A quiet forgotten story hanging on the wall.
The gentleman who showed me the menu was very pleasant. When he heard my story, he told me he had never crossed the border, even though he had been a San Diego native. Apparently he is apprehensive of crossing the border. I thought to myself, if one never crosses the borders, one would miss out a lot. I try to encourage him to take a trip.
He was very courteous, and friendly. Later he professed he is one of the owners, and I was impressed seeing a boss man working with others in the kitchen. I could not have guessed if he did not tell himself.
Even though I did not plan on ordering a drink, my interest was piqued at the cocktail he was making for someone else. I ordered the same for myself. It had ginger ale, lemon, bitter and vodka. What a refreshing drink it was and complimented my dinner quite well!
My chicken marsala and garlic bread was so good, that I thought I might drive to San Diego just to have one more plate :) The high rating on Yelp was correct, the food was spectacular.
The next day, was the last day of my trip. The goal was to reach home, almost 500 miles. In spite of my wanting to leave very early, by the time I started it became almost 8 AM. I thought I would beat the tourists, but boy, I was wrong.
Even though there were five to six lanes, Hwy 5 was packed to the brim, for several miles ahead as far as the eyes can see. Even though California allows for lane splitting, the people of San Diego (or the tourists) seem to be unaware of such a thing. No one would even budge a little to allow for a motorcycle rider to pass through. I could not make up my mind if this was worse or the unpaved alternates in Mexico were. Then I saw couple of local riders taking to the curb on the left most lane, I immediately followed suit, knowing well its unlawful to ride on the curb. But with a heavy motorcycle, packed saddlebags full and with bags bungeed on the back, I could not do the stop and gos - it was more stops than gos :(
Soon enough I discover that it was some kind of construction ahead that caused this traffic jam. Past that, even though there was crowd, the traffic was flowing. After what seemed like forever, I left the LA metropolitan area behind, and was breezing past Tejon Pass. Actually this high speed pass is very enjoyable with long sweeping curves.
Once again, long time in the past, I had read about another road - Hwy 58 between McKittrick and Santa Margarita. I wanted to put that on my resume. Leaving Hwy 5 near McKettrick onto Hwy 58 going west, the difference was palpable. Other than me being on a country side, it made me wonder whatever happened to the million cars running up and down Hwy 5, my traffic woes riding through San Diego and LA seemed like distant past. Nothing but cool breeze to keep company, the road was stark lonely. The forest fires burning far away cast a pale yellow shade to the sun behind the fog. Good thing about this lonely stretch was the fact I could set my own pace, and enjoy the ride. It was a very beautiful road.
Back on 101 near Santa Margarita, it was not as crowded as Hwy 5. Before I knew it, I was back in Bay Area. Home Sweet Home atlast...
The trip clocked 3070 miles, and certainly the mighty ST would get some well deserved rest. And me getting back to normal life would be rest enough!
"Sometimes, you find yourself in the middle of nowhere. And in the middle of nowhere you find yourself. Anonymous".
Having been a lot of in the middle of no wheres, I can relate to the above line, which ringed true.
In conclusion, the trip was spectacular. More than what I had bargained for. I was lucky to have come back in one piece, safe and sound to tell the story. Though I did not expect anything otherwise, I should be thankful for a safe trip. Nay, I should be thankful for having got a chance to do it, and every other day spent either dreaming about, or remembering such an outing.
A trip such as this, is like reading a good book, never know how the next page is going to turn up, what kind of characters I am going to meet, what sounds and smells am I going to experience, what fears I may harbor, and what delights might come around the corner. At the end, you feel sad the book is over, and hope to find another book just as interesting.
And so it was....
Here is a toast to a satisfying trip, and to all others also who write such travelogues that keep me company on a rainy day!
Once my family arrived, it was time for frolic. For the next three days, we soaked in the swimming pool, and the warm ocean. Drank many a guilt-free cocktails, ate much from the four or five restaurants inside the resort. Walked on the beach with a gentle surf.
I wanted to remember the gentle surf, a small clip of the ocean scene and sounds can help to soothe anyones mind.
Gentle Surf
The infinity pool was amazing. I have seen pictures of pools such as these, but this was my first personal experience. It is very beautiful sight where the edge pool merges with a ocean view.
The coconut trees certainly added to the tropical feel.
During the daytime, this outdoors bar is one of the busiest.
Just liked the sight of a couple on the sandy shores.
We did a couple of touristy activities such as a boating trip to do snorkeling and another one to swim with the dolphins.
The boat ride to the southern most tip of Baja, was quite enjoyable. The arch and the Scooby Doo rock were spectacular.
Apparently the little rock below is the official southernmost tip of Baja...
When it came to swimming with a dolphin, I don't think I had this much fun riding anything other than a motorcycle :) And my kids had much fun too...
We did not know how the three days went by. It was already time to leave. As soon as my family left, I packed up and hit the road.
A quick ride down to La Paz, took me to the same flat of Laurence's. I had the keys with me. While in Cabo, I kept an eye on the weather, and another tropical storm had just crossed up north between Ciudad Constitución and Ciudad Insurgentes, right where the long road construction was. I wanted to play it safe, as I had to return on schedule, and did not want to risk riding in slushy unpaved stretch. Frantic searches on the web for someone who could tow did not yield anything immediate. The convenience of Yelp or Google search for tow trucks came empty After a lot of googling I narrowed my choices to a few contacts including a site Baja Wheeling from a discussion forum talking about towing boats.
I was going to have dinner with Laurence and Luis, and they showed up around 5:30. It was getting late for a business day. I had Laurence call the first couple of contacts, as many here spoke only in spanish. No one even picked up the phone. As luck would have it, we reluctantly called Thomas at Baja Wheeling. Laurence talked to him first in Spanish, and came to know that he talks in English. She gave me the phone immediately to me. What a relief it was hear someone talk the language that you understand :)
It turns out that he is a Canadian settled in La Paz, and as an independent single guy company who helps people to tow their fancy boats from as far as Florida and Texas down to Baja. Over the phone he sounded like a guy who can do anything. To my dismay he says he could give me a ride the following week when he is going that way for some reason. I almost begged him saying I am on a tight schedule, and have some US dollars that I can pay him in cash. He told me to email him the address where I was holed up, and he will let me know later whether he is going to do it.
Having done what I could, my only choice if I did not get a tow truck, was to brave my way through the unpaved stretch, and figure the rest on the go. May be I could stay one extra day to allow for the muddy soil to dry up. Laurence was fully supportive of that idea, and offered that I could stay in their apartment as long as I wished. Bless her heart!
Then Luis drove us to a local Mexican restaurant. Just when we started, we got a call from Thomas, and said that he did not want to see me stranded, and so, will help me tow my bike across the construction zone. What a relief it was...
We ordered a big plate of nachos with a lot of cheese and ground beef. It was delicious, and a single plate was filling for three adults. Had a beer to wash it down. Did not need to order any more food.
We drove back to an ice-cream shop, which the locals like a lot. Even around 10 PM, the seaside was quite active. Given the warm night, the ice cream sounded like a good idea. I chose the coffee flavored ice-cream, and we strolled along the shore line until we all finished the ice-cream.
Knowing I will have to leave early the next day, I had to bid good bye to Laurence and Luis, and thank them as much as words can describe for their hospitality.
Next morning I woke early, eager to continue my journey home. Thomas was on time. It was tricky to get my bike on his Ford truck. I was shit scared when he asked me to ride on the two skinny ramps he tied to the end of his flatbed. I did not dare to do such a stunt for the fear of dropping the bike, let alone hurting myself. Deciding to push the bike instead, I found someone to help us to push. While it did not take too long, it was a challenge getting the mighty ST on to the truck.
Thomas did not waste anytime getting out of La Paz and pointed his truck north. It was a couple of hours drive to the drop off point.
Soon enough we came across the construction zone. It was not as bad as I had thought in spite of the rains. Even though there were several wet spots on the road, much of it had dried up. Any which way, with all the soft sand, I was glad to have asked for help when I needed it, better be careful than sorry, I guess. Like the man once said, "You have to know your limits!" :)
Along the way, I hear stories from Thomas about why he chose to live in Baja, the simple life, his adventures of towing big boats through the narrow twisties down the stretch of Baja, and more than anything else - the hurricane stories.
Thomas is a big strong guy, and I am extremely surprised to learn that he is a vegetarian. For a guy who is on the road so often, its hard to find good vegetarian food along the way, and so he packs his lunch.
We stop around noon time at a road side Taco stand, and Thomas said that the food is supposed to be good and was highly recommended by his wife. Sure enough, the tacos were delicious.
I did not even feel the couple of hours roll by in his company. Soon after, we reach Ciudad Insurgentes, I find couple more guys in a gas station to help us unload the bike. Getting the bike down was a lot easier than getting it up. I thank Thomas profusely, and bid him goodbye with a bear-hug as he rolls out of the gas station.
I would certainly recommend looking him up if you are ever in need of any help around La Paz.
I remember talking to the gas station attendant, who spoke English fluently. He had worked in the farms of the Central valley of California for several years. He had to go back after his visa ended as he could not renew it. However, now he is a happy camper, bought a house down there with the money he saved, and seemed to be enjoying the laid back life in the country side of Ciudad Insurgentes.
From there to Mulege was a smooth run with no surprises. Close to Loretto, I do find a roadside Coco shop, where I entertain myself with a fresh coconut.
I check in to the familiar Hotel Mulege, where I had stayed on the way in. It was very hot and muggy by the time I got there. Immediately I went and got a couple of beers from the convenience store near by.
Sometimes you learn about yourself a lot on the road. Did not know I was capable of gulping down two beers in just a few minutes :) And it felt good in the warm muggy atmosphere, as the poor old AC unit was trying its best to cool down the room without much success. I sprawled on the bed and took a nice long nap.
By the time I got up, the sun had gone down, and the temperatures were more manageable. I take a stroll outside to the restaurant next door. There I met the restaurant owner. Being the last guy to order food for the day, I was alone, and started to chat with the owner, and he was happy to oblige for a palaver. Another one of the inspiring stories I heard from him - He came from the mainland Mexico to Baja, a long time ago. Setup a roadside Taco stand, worked hard, and eventually he was able to buy this nice little place and open a proper restaurant. Much of the items on the menu are his own recipes. Good story of someone chasing their dreams, and becoming successful.
The next morning, I visit the same place for breakfast. This time, the owner remembers me and welcomes as if I am an old friend. He was seated with someone, so, I look around to find another table, but he calls me to join him. He also introduces me to the other gentleman, who is from San Diego. Soon, his wife also joins, and we have a very nice conversation.
They come to Baja almost every year for a few weeks vacation. They have a lot to say about how to enjoy Baja, which is not certainly riding quickly through it :) Apparently there are a lot of villages, street side restaurants and quiet, uncrowded coasts around Mulege and Loretto. Someday, I might return to enjoy such calm days on the beach. They talked about the old highway between La Paz and Cabo, about the town Todo Santos, which provides much more rustic experience than the freeway I had been on. They claimed a lot of mango, sapotae orchards along the way, with trees filled with fruits during the season. Someday, I hope to get on that old road.
The couple were the simple folks, with such heartwarming smiles. And certainly I learnt a thing or two from them about taking pleasures with the simplest of things, and finding joy in each others company. He is a handy man, and she his office assistant. He says gleefully, "I do not like talking on the phone. My wife does all the talking, and I do all the work.". A good partnership indeed...
Saddling up, I start towards Cataviña. Even though I had been through this road on my way in, everything looks different when I travelled the opposite direction. There is a lot that I recognized, then again, a lot I did not. For example, entering Baja Norte there was a huge flag, and a very elaborate establishment for the border control. even though I was quickly waved through.
Not too far from the Baja Norte border, I do take a lunch break at a gas station. Once again the language problem overcome by sign language as I get a couple of tacos, and sit under the tree. The warm breeze is quite enjoyable. For the bill, I was shown the number on a calculator, which I gladly paid. Delicious food for a very nominal price. I guess the taco lady made all the tacos in the morning, and was selling them during the day, you can tell how fresh the food tasted. I sit around until my coke is finished.
I pass through the section where I got struck in the sand on my way in. I must have spent more than half hour digging my way through the sandy 'vada' crossing barely half a mile. Now that stretch of pavement is completed, it was open for traffic. I cross the trouble spot in just a few seconds.
Climbing towards Catavina, once again was uneventful. I made good time. Another small break to stretch my legs did not last too long as it was getting very hot. The desert does not offer any shades. I was eager to get some breeze while moving which otherwise did not exist. So, I take a couple of pictures of the surroundings, and take a few sips of water.
While I am there, a couple of truckers and cars pass by. It was amazing to see almost each and every one of them wave as they pass by, and I wave back at them with a big smile on the face. Somehow, such civilities get lost when we are in crowds, and we get caught in our own lives.
I reach Cataviña well in time around 3 PM.
I had been at the Hotel Mission Cataviña only once on my way in. But it instantly felt like home, as I walked the red tiles on the way to my room.
There were a couple of kids frolicking in the pond. I get a beer from the bar, and I also decide to soak into the water after a long ride under the hot sun. It certainly felt good.
Later in the evening I strolled around to take a few pictures of the surroundings, cactuses under the setting sun.
As I walk around when the sun started to set on the far west, I think I got some good pictures of the cactuses.
An old style selfie had to happen under the setting sun :)
My heart was at peace, as surprisingly I was on schedule. As much as I loved travelling to parts unknown, proximity of homeland was very inviting. I will be crossing the border into San Diego the next day. A sense of accomplishment was swelling in my heart. I had some simple food, and later sat around in the dark for a long time. Well, it was not as dark, as the near full moon was casting its silvery glaze over the desert. If and when I come here next, I should on a no-moon day, I tell myself. The unpolluted skies would be spectacular with the whole milky way carpeting the skies. Once again this could be another reason for me to visit.
Warm summer desert nights are something to be experienced. Barring occasional trucks passing through, I enjoyed the absolute quite of the night. Not even insects stirred under the thorny cactuses, an absolute quiet reigned. Until one experiences such a thing, we don't realize how oblivious we have become to the cacophony of sounds surrounding our normal lives in the cities.
The next morning, I woke up early and went out to take the sunrise pictures. I was also able to shoot the full moon which was still hanging around in the skies even after the sun rose.
To my dismay the little restaurant across the road was closed. I guess they open the doors only when they feel like. I go back to the restaurant in the motel, and have some simple breakfast, and wash it down with a coffee and fresh orange juice.
For namesake, I do fill in some gas from the roadside vendor, knowing full well that I had plenty gas until the next gas station. I still had some pesos in my pocket which is better with the guy selling gas sitting in a shack than in my pocket, I can give him some business.
The road from Cataviña to El Rosario was one of the best scenic roads I had been on, In the early morning sun, the desert was glowing. I was glad to have seen this road in broad daylight, as on the way in it got too dark fairly fast when I was crossing this stretch.
The road twisted and turned. The road so narrow at places, and went through some very high points with no guard rails. I certainly felt vertigo in many places. One has to be extremely careful, particularly if one is travelling by car, as the trucks borrow more space from the opposite lanes, and in tight twists, the headlights of a truck going in the opposite direction can come as a surprise.
Once I got to El Rosario, I do meet an lonely Australian rider going south, and he mentions his trip is also to the tip of Argentina... He seemed a lot more prepared than I was. Looks like the stretch between Alaska to Argentina is a popular stretch for the adventurous kind.
I realized my sight seeing times are over. And I was determined to reach San Diego by the evening. The only thing that can consume more of my time is the border crossing. This day I also saw a fair share of the off-road riding but it was not as bad as the alternate roads were well packed.
As I get close to Ensenada, I do spot a lady selling Jack fruits on the road side, It is one of my most favorite fruits. So, I stop for an unplanned break. But the break was well worth it. Once again, I found the language was no barrier, and the lady served me couple of boxes of peeled Jack fruit. She watches me with interest as I gobble it up.
I felt an unknown friendship to this lady. I ask for another box of fruits to go, and she packs it well and gives it to me. With another wave of goodbye to another stranger, I start towards my final stretch.
Reaching Tijuana was no problem. But as I approached the border crossing, I was appalled by the amount of crowd, and number of people. The road was packed with folks returning after a weekend in Mexico. It took me well over couple of hours for a handful of miles to reach the border crossing.
As I approached the gate and sat waiting for my turn, I felt a little pang in my heart saying good-bye to the country which was my home for the past couple of weeks. There were a whole bunch of street peddlers trying to sell trinkets. A silent promise swelled in my heart to return someday.
The border crossing was peaceful. The security officer commented, "Wow, must have been a good ride.", and waves me through. Yes, indeed it was a good trip.
Once in Gringo land, the traffic moves smooth on I5, and before I knew it, I check into Motel 6 near San Diego Airport. I still remember a few flights flying so low over the building tops as they descended into the airport beyond. If I jumped high enough, I could have touched them :) I see a girl on the sitting on the first floor lost in her book, with a cigarette to keep her company. Familiar smells and sounds make me feel at home.
Once I check into the room, it was a pleasant change to see all the channels on TV in English :) I take a long shower, and walk out to find a place to eat dinner. I realized that I am right next to the 'Little Italy', and decide go for a walk around, and have dinner at an Italian restaurant.
It was not too hard to choose a place to eat with Yelp's help. The streets were thronging with pedestrians and the restaurants looked quite busy for the dinnertime. I do spot a craft beer place while strolling - Bolt Brewery. I got myself an Orange Ale which was quite good.
Then I walk over to the Mona Lisa Italian Restaurant. I found a seat near the bar, and ordered chicken marsala. I found the history of the restaurant quite interesting. A quiet forgotten story hanging on the wall.
The gentleman who showed me the menu was very pleasant. When he heard my story, he told me he had never crossed the border, even though he had been a San Diego native. Apparently he is apprehensive of crossing the border. I thought to myself, if one never crosses the borders, one would miss out a lot. I try to encourage him to take a trip.
He was very courteous, and friendly. Later he professed he is one of the owners, and I was impressed seeing a boss man working with others in the kitchen. I could not have guessed if he did not tell himself.
Even though I did not plan on ordering a drink, my interest was piqued at the cocktail he was making for someone else. I ordered the same for myself. It had ginger ale, lemon, bitter and vodka. What a refreshing drink it was and complimented my dinner quite well!
My chicken marsala and garlic bread was so good, that I thought I might drive to San Diego just to have one more plate :) The high rating on Yelp was correct, the food was spectacular.
The next day, was the last day of my trip. The goal was to reach home, almost 500 miles. In spite of my wanting to leave very early, by the time I started it became almost 8 AM. I thought I would beat the tourists, but boy, I was wrong.
Even though there were five to six lanes, Hwy 5 was packed to the brim, for several miles ahead as far as the eyes can see. Even though California allows for lane splitting, the people of San Diego (or the tourists) seem to be unaware of such a thing. No one would even budge a little to allow for a motorcycle rider to pass through. I could not make up my mind if this was worse or the unpaved alternates in Mexico were. Then I saw couple of local riders taking to the curb on the left most lane, I immediately followed suit, knowing well its unlawful to ride on the curb. But with a heavy motorcycle, packed saddlebags full and with bags bungeed on the back, I could not do the stop and gos - it was more stops than gos :(
Soon enough I discover that it was some kind of construction ahead that caused this traffic jam. Past that, even though there was crowd, the traffic was flowing. After what seemed like forever, I left the LA metropolitan area behind, and was breezing past Tejon Pass. Actually this high speed pass is very enjoyable with long sweeping curves.
Once again, long time in the past, I had read about another road - Hwy 58 between McKittrick and Santa Margarita. I wanted to put that on my resume. Leaving Hwy 5 near McKettrick onto Hwy 58 going west, the difference was palpable. Other than me being on a country side, it made me wonder whatever happened to the million cars running up and down Hwy 5, my traffic woes riding through San Diego and LA seemed like distant past. Nothing but cool breeze to keep company, the road was stark lonely. The forest fires burning far away cast a pale yellow shade to the sun behind the fog. Good thing about this lonely stretch was the fact I could set my own pace, and enjoy the ride. It was a very beautiful road.
Back on 101 near Santa Margarita, it was not as crowded as Hwy 5. Before I knew it, I was back in Bay Area. Home Sweet Home atlast...
The trip clocked 3070 miles, and certainly the mighty ST would get some well deserved rest. And me getting back to normal life would be rest enough!
Concluding thoughts
"Sometimes, you find yourself in the middle of nowhere. And in the middle of nowhere you find yourself. Anonymous".
Having been a lot of in the middle of no wheres, I can relate to the above line, which ringed true.
In conclusion, the trip was spectacular. More than what I had bargained for. I was lucky to have come back in one piece, safe and sound to tell the story. Though I did not expect anything otherwise, I should be thankful for a safe trip. Nay, I should be thankful for having got a chance to do it, and every other day spent either dreaming about, or remembering such an outing.
A trip such as this, is like reading a good book, never know how the next page is going to turn up, what kind of characters I am going to meet, what sounds and smells am I going to experience, what fears I may harbor, and what delights might come around the corner. At the end, you feel sad the book is over, and hope to find another book just as interesting.
And so it was....
Here is a toast to a satisfying trip, and to all others also who write such travelogues that keep me company on a rainy day!
Was your son scared? He is not smiling on the back of dolphin. Beautiful places and interesting life stories from people -- thanks for sharing!
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